Ginza Udon Soba Tanigawa

A glossy tangle of noodles arrives topped with generous pork, green onion and an egg yolk at its centre. One dish to try first at 銀座うどん そば たに川 is the pork dipping udon, served with a broth whose red sheen comes from chilli oil. Dip the thick noodles into the mildly spicy broth, with its fried tempura crumbs and green onion, then eat them with the pork and egg yolk. The result is full, savoury flavour in every mouthful. Bonito flakes and seaweed are provided at the table, so you can add them as you eat and bring a change of aroma to the bowl.

There are gentler options, too: pork udon brightened with sudachi citrus and grated daikon, or warm duck soba. Some days call for the springy texture of cold udon; on others, soba with the rich aroma of pork and broth is the draw. Choosing between the noodles is part of the pleasure. For a more substantial meal, you can add a pork rice bowl set or a small dish. Beer and other alcoholic drinks are also available to accompany a few plates.

In a quieter part of Tomihisa-cho, Shinjuku, the restaurant is centred around counter seating and has an easygoing feel for a casual stop. It opens at 10 am on weekdays and 9 am on weekends, and stays open until late. That makes it a useful option for a late breakfast, a drink after work or takeout at different points in the day. There is also an outdoor space where you can spend time with your dog, adding to the convenience of stopping in while out around the neighbourhood.